While in Romania, we spent most of a day exploring Bucharest, before taking the train on to the Transylvanian Region.
As I often do, especially on short stays in a new place, I joined a free walking tour to learn as much as I could in the short time I had. Our guide, Elena, took us through more than 500 years of history including Vlad the Impaler, the height of communism, the ’89 Revolution, and more as we made our way around part of the city.
At first glance, Bucharest is not one of Europe’s beautiful old cities. However, as you begin to explore, you soon find that all the beautiful, old buildings are hidden behind the ‘Communist Curtain,’ as Elena put it.
During the communist regime of Nicolae Ceausescu, many of the buildings that were not destroyed were hidden away. When you stand in the centre square, you see a wall of concrete buildings, but as you make your way past them, you find the city’s hidden gems. Some buildings were even moved out of the way to save them from being destroyed.
With less than a day to explore, here are some of the highlights.
Hanul- Lui Manuc is the oldest operating hotel building in Bucharest. Inside the gates it houses a popular restaurant. This used to be a stop for travellers on their way from Vienna to Constantinople. It was built in 1808 and continues to serve traditional Romanian food.
There are still some wooden cobblestones near the entrance to the courtyard, showing what the streets used to look like. The inner courtyard used to house wagons and horses of the travellers and merchants who stayed here overnight.
Across the square is St Anthony Church, the oldest church remaining in Bucharest from 1559. It was destroyed by fires in both 1611 and 1847 and rebuilt. Inside are beautiful frescoes in the neoclassical style, painted in 1852.
Thanks to its abundance of French-inspired architecture, Bucharest is often referred to as ‘Little Paris.’ A great example of this is the beautiful horseshoe-shaped passage in the heart of the Old Town known as Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse, where today you will find cafes and eateries.
The most beautiful building, in my opinion, is the 18th-century Eastern Orthodox Church of Stavropoleos Monastery.
With its stunning architecture, ornamental motifs and paintings and secret courtyard housing cloisters behind, it’s the perfect secret spot to get away from the rest of the city and relax in silence for a little while. Definitely a must-see spot in Bucharest.
As a huge book lover, hearing there was a bookstore with six floors located in Bucharest, I had to find it. Cărturești Carusel, translated as ‘Carousel of Light,’ is situated in a restored 19th-century building in the heart of Bucharest’s Old Town.
Here, you will find well over ten thousand books and a cute cafe on the top floor. I could have easily spent hours here!
Revolution Square, near the university, is the site of the 1989 uprising that led to the end of the communist regime after Ceaușescu was captured and executed on Christmas Day.
Take a break from exploring and enjoy a traditional Romanian meal at one of the oldest breweries in Bucharest, Caru’ cu bere. It began in 1879 as La Carul cu Bere(the beer wagon). At this time, the beer was brought to the brewery by horse-drawn wagons. For several years, the three Mircea brothers ran several beer houses in the area of the Villacros Passage, until one started construction of the Caru’ cu bere building in 1899.
The famous restaurant and brewery still stands there today. This gorgeous neo-gothic style building is filled with stained glass, paintings, mosaics, and carved panels on the inside, as well as a great bar area. There is also a nice patio and traditional live music and dance can be enjoyed most days.
We enjoyed a pint of the beer made here and some traditional dishes, including Papanași (traditional Romanian fried doughnuts made with cottage cheese and topped with smetana and jam). So good!
We needed a few more hours here to make it to the Palace of the Parliament and the Roman Athenaeum, but we had a train to catch to Brasov, so we spent the last bit of time wandering around the beautiful streets of Old Town Bucharest before heading out.
Info
Train from Bucharest Henri Coandă International Airport to Bucharesti Nord Station 5 RON 20-25 mins
Subway system is convenient and easy to navigate. 2-ride ticket is 6 RON
As a huge Halloween fan, Bran Castle and Romania’s Transylvania region has been on my travel list for years.
Arriving in Brasov’s Old Town, I immediately fell in love. This, to me, is exactly what a medieval European city should look like. Ringed by the Carpathian Mountains and filled with cobblestoned streets, medieval walls and colourful baroque buildings, Old Town looks like something out of a fairy tale.
Brasov was founded by the Teutonic Knights in 1211 and was settled by the Saxons in the 13th century, becoming one of Transylvania’s seven walled citadels. Brasov’s location became an important intersection, linking trade routes between the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe.
Our hotel, Casa Wagner, was located in Brasov’s main square, Piaţa Sfatului (Council Square), a large open area where medieval markets were held.
The hotel was originally built in 1477 and is the third oldest building located in the square that is also filled with shops, restaurants, and cafes, with Brasov Old Town Hall found in the centre.
Built in 1420, Casa Sfatului was the meeting place for the town’s council members for several centuries. Today, it is home to Brasov’s History Museum.
Just south of Council Square is the Black Church, the largest gothic structure in Romania and one of Brasov’s most famous sites. The church got its name after the flames and smoke of the ‘Great Fire’ in 1689 darkened its exterior walls. The church was originally built between 1385 and 1477. After the fire, restoration took 100 years.
Today, the church is a massive structure, with beautiful stained glass and statues located all around it. The bell tower stands 65m high and is home to the largest and heaviest church bell in Romania.
The Black Church’s massive pipe organ dates from 1839. It was built by Carl August Buchholz and takes up three floors and contains 3993 pipes! This massive organ still functions and concerts are performed several times a week.
Most of the original statues have been removed from the outer walls to preserve them and replicas have been put up in their place. You can find many of the originals inside the church. Entrance tickets can be purchased for 20 lei at the gift shop across from the church. It looks big from the outside, but once you walk through the large wooden doors, you see how truly big this church is.
Another interesting historical piece in this church are the pews. When people first started to attend, they sat within their guilds. The more important your guild (teachers, town councillors, etc.), the closer you sat to the pulpit.
These pews were also more ornately decorated. Each guild could add carvings, paintings, ornamental elements, and symbols to represent their guild on the panel of the pew. The pews themselves were all fairly standard, except for the carpenter’s guild, who made sure to carve theirs more ornately when making all the pews. It was neat to walk around and see all the differences.
There was a small section containing tombstones with elaborate carvings of the person’s face. Apparently, this was a common thing to do among the wealthy, so they could be depicted in all their grandeur for eternity!
The various murals, paintings, and statues found throughout the church are also worth a look.
As I often do when exploring a new city, I joined up with a free walking tour to learn more about Brasov and all there was to see. We set out with our guide on a 2.5-hour walk around Old Town, where he told us lots of historic facts and local legends and pointed out the house where Vlad the Impaler’s mistress lived.
As we came to the Black Church, he pointed out one of the statues on the roof and told us how Brasov and a neighbouring city were competing to build the biggest and best church. They took this very seriously and only the master builder knew the full plan. One day, he found a little boy up on the roof looking at all they were doing. No one knew who this boy was, so they figured he must be a spy sent from the other town and he was pushed off the roof!
Now, a statue of a little boy looking over the edge can be found on the roof. Some say it was put there as a memorial; others say it’s a warning.
Rope Street, Strada Sforii, is one of the narrowest streets in Europe at 3.6 to 4 feet wide. As the houses were all connected, there was no quick way to get from one street to another, so Rope Street was used as an access route for firefighters. There is a statue of a Rope Lady at one end, pointing the way to the passage.
One legend says that Rope Street was a meeting place for lovers whose parents did not approve of their relationship, and that couples who kissed on Rope Street will forever be tied together.
High above Brasov, in the Carpathian Mountains, is Mount Tampa. There are several different trails you can hike up the mountain or take the cable car (30 lei RT, Hours: 9:30 a.m. – 4 p.m.) to the top for a great view of the city and surrounding area.
From the upper cable car station, it’s a short walk along the path to the famous Brasov sign, where you will get the best views of the town from 955m above!
The cable car takes about 2.5 minutes to ascend to the top, and at less than $9 CAD ($6.50 USD) return, it’s definitely worth it. At the top, you will also find a small cafe and some more walking trails.
As we were there in October, all the leaves had begun to change colour, making the view even more spectacular. You could see all of Old Town, including a great view of the Black Church from above.
When Vlad Tepes (the Impaler) attacked Brasov in 1458, the citadel was destroyed and 40 merchants who refused to pay trade taxes were impaled, and displayed on top of the mountain. I much preferred the view of the fall foliage!
Catherine’s Gate, erected in 1559 by the Tailors’ Guild, is the only original gate to have survived from medieval times. During Saxon rule, Romanians weren’t allowed to own property inside the fortress and were only allowed to enter at certain times to sell their goods. They would be required to pay a toll before entering. At the time, these gates were the only way in and out of Brasov. Above the entrance, the tower bears the city’s coat of arms: a crown on a tree trunk.
Black Tower stands atop a rock on Starja Hill and is one of four defensive towers in Brasov built in the 15th century, and offers great views of the city.
Hunter’s Tower is another defensive tower in the citadel used for storing power during the Middle Ages.
Once you’re done exploring for the day, enjoy a traditional Transylvanian dinner at Sergiana. Head down into the basement, where you will find cave-like dining rooms, servers in traditional Romanian attire, and a delicious variety of local Transylvanian dishes.
After dinner, check out Beraria Mustata for some local craft beer.
While the Council Square is great by day, be sure to check it out at night when it’s all lit up and the Hollywood style BRASOV sign is shining high up on Mt. Tampa.
And while you are in the area, a trip to Bran to see Bran Castle is a must! We spent half a day exploring Dracula’s Castle and the small town of Bran. More on that here.
Brasov is about 30 minutes from Bran. There are buses that will take you, but we found taking a Bolt or an Uber far more convenient.
Before catching our train back to Bucharest, we had to stop for one more delicious Papanași (traditional Romanian fried doughnuts made with cottage cheese and topped with smetana and jam) at La Ceaun in the main square.
Whether you are exploring Transylvania or just making your way to see Dracula’s Bran Castle, be sure to stop and explore Brasov on the way. You won’t be disappointed!
I’ve heard about Trader Sam’s Grog Grotto for years, but never made it there on any previous Disney trips. So, since we were there to celebrate my 40th birthday, I figured this was the perfect time to finally check out this Tiki hideaway.
This tropical Tiki bar is found in Disney World’s Polynesian Resort, just around the corner from the lobby.
Through a plain-looking wooden door, you step into the enchanting world of the South Seas. The lounge itself is small and packed with ancient artefacts, hidden treasures, an erupting volcano, an angry Tiki god, and more covering the walls and ceiling.
The line starts around 2pm and it fills up fast, so be sure to get your name on the list right away.
When it was finally our turn, we got seats at the bar just as a thunderstorm began. The volcano erupted and everyone around us started chanting “Uh-Oa.” I immediately liked this place!
We started off with two of the drinks where you can also purchase the Tiki mug as a souvenir—the HippopotoMai-Tai and the Zombie.
The bartender, Alyssa, was amazing. She spent the next couple hours bringing great drinks and delivering bad jokes that had us laughing away. We soon learned that many of the drinks have some kind of action associated with them, from a thunderstorm, to everyone ‘swimming,’ to a little hippo coming out to visit when you order the HippopotoMai-Tai. The whole experience becomes very interactive, which only adds to the charm of this place.
The best one, however, in my opinion, is when you order the Uh-Oa, which is one you can share, and the whole bar starts chanting ‘Uh-Oa.’ Alyssa brought ours out and told us that we had angered ‘Uh-Oa’ by ordering this beverage and now we had to sacrifice it to appease her. She then lit our drink on fire and had us throw the cinnamon onto the flame to make it grow larger as we chanted her name. As this is happening, we are being sprayed with water as our sacrifice is ‘horrible’ and Uh-Oa comes out to curse us and then Alyssa stabs our drink to finalize the sacrifice. It is quite the little presentation and just made this drink even more enjoyable!
As I was looking around, I noticed a Tiki that looked like an octopus and found out it is the new limited edition blue Ursula Tiki mug that comes with a drink called Sign the Scroll (Kraken Black Spiced Rum, Royal Blue Curacao Liqueur, red passion fruit, and pomegranate juice and topped with an edible flower).
As The Little Mermaid is my favourite Disney movie, I of course needed to add this to the collection of Tiki mugs we were now taking home! The drink was delicious, probably my favourite of the night and so pretty to look at!
They have a great selection of drinks on the menu, but be sure to ask about the selection of drinks they have off the menu, like the TK-421 from Star Wars.
While it is mainly a bar, you will find a small selection of appetizers as well, like the Thai Chicken Flatbread, which was very tasty.
If, like me, you’ve missed the little spot of paradise on your previous Disney trips, I would highly recommend putting it on your must-do list on your next Disney adventure!
Did you know there is a short story dispenser located in Edmonton International Airport?
This is the first airport short story dispenser found in North America.
You’ll find the blue machine located between gates 62-64 near the living wall.
You can choose between a 1 minute or a 5 minute read in English or French. The stories are written by 100 local authors as well as authors from popular travel destinations around the world.
This year brought a big birthday for me… my 40th. I knew I wanted to do something fun and as I usually try to be away on a trip to celebrate my birthday, this year was no different. But what to do with limited time off?
I’ve often thought of spending my birthday at Disney World’s EPCOT going ‘Around the World’ and decided this was the perfect year to do it!
I love Disney, and so far, I’ve been to all the parks except for the one in Shanghai, but I have never stayed at a Disney Resort, so that got added to the list for this birthday trip. As I was looking at all the options, I found out that the Art of Animation Resort has a Little Mermaid section, and my decision was made!
This hotel is filled with animation artwork from four films: The Little Mermaid, The Lion King, Finding Nemo, and Cars, and there are sections of the hotel for each film. The outsides of the buildings are also decorated with images from the films and there are awesome statues of characters around the resort.
Walking into the Little Mermaid section, I was like a kid in a candy store. Disney really knows how to bring the magic to everything it does.
Our room was in Ursula’s building and was decorated for our ‘Under the Sea’ stay. They even had a birthday greeting waiting for me!
After lots of photos and a quick tour around, we headed for dinner at the Landscape of Flavours restaurant and ended with a Mermaid Tail cupcake. It was delicious!!
TIP: If you are staying at a Disney Resort, consider buying a refillable mug like we did. It’s $21.99 but gives you unlimited refills of soft drinks, coffee, tea, and hot chocolate at ANY Disney Resort. When each soft drink is $4.29 and coffee is $3.49, it quickly adds up to being worth it.
On my birthday, after getting a few photos with my faves in my birthday tutu, we set out for EPCOT.
From the Art of Animation Resort, the best way to get there, and also the most fun, is by taking the Disney Skyliner (another reason I chose this resort). These colourful gondolas painted with Disney characters connect several Disney Resorts with both EPCOT and Hollywood Studios and are definitely more fun than taking a bus.
The Skyliner drops you off near the International Gateway entrance at EPCOT. It had been years since I last visited EPCOT, so we started by heading to say hello to Spaceship Earth and get some Mickey ears.
I was also looking for the Disney Passports that allow you to get stamps as you make your way around the world, but found out they have been sold out for months and while they are supposed to be coming back, no one seemed to know when. Likely not until at least the spring. I was really looking forward to doing this, so decided to make my own passport using an Autograph book. Sometimes you just have to get creative! So, with my new ears to match my outfit and my makeshift passport, we set out.
Before heading to World Showcase, we stopped at World Nature. I wanted to check out the new Journey of Water – Inspired by Moana.
It has beautiful, interactive walk-through gardens and water exhibits. You can even make the water come to you!
We also stopped by the aquariums at SeaBase, had a conversation with Crush and friends in Turtle Talk and then rode a seashell around The Seas with Nemo and Friends.
Then, it was time for our Around the World journey to begin. We started in Canada, the perfect place for two Canadians, checking out the beautiful Victoria Gardens in BC, Rocky Mountains and waterfalls, gorgeous old buildings, totem poles, and trading post. We also watched Canada Far and Wide, a 360 film showing the beauty of Canada (although it was missing half of it).
From Canada, it was across the pond to the United Kingdom. One of my favourite things about EPCOT is all the detail put into making each country unique. You can immediately tell when you’ve crossed the border as the buildings, food options, foliage, etc., change. Stepping into England, there were cobblestone streets, beautiful Tudor style buildings, those famous red telephone booths, as well as tea shops, pubs, and fish and chips!
I also found Alice outside one of the buildings who wished me happy birthday and asked if I was going to be having a birthday tea party that she could attend!
Next, we went over the channel to France, where we grabbed our first drink, Orange Slush (Grand Marnier, Rum, Grey Goose, and Orange Juice) and a Grey Goose Citron Lemonade Slush. Both were delicious!
As you make your way through the shops and bistros of Paris, you’ll find Remy’s Ratatouille Adventure.
However, with a wait time of well over an hour, we skipped that and joined the Beauty and the Beast sing-a-long instead!
Morocco was next. Another thing I love about EPCOT is finding all the artwork of characters whose stories take place in that country, like Abu here in Morocco.
Japanese Taiko drummers met us at our next stop.
There is a variety of entertainment found around World Showcase ranging from musical groups to belly dancing to street performing. Definitely a fun way to see a bit more of the local culture as you make your way through the countries.
I loved the gardens, pagodas, and koi pond found in the Japan pavilion. It’s always been a favourite of mine and the perfect spot to get some great photos and take in some unique Japanese art.
The American Adventure is up next, with a film about America through the years. You can also catch the ‘Voices of Liberty’ concert several times a day.
We stopped for lunch in Italy at Via Napoli Ristorante e Pizzeria for a wood oven margherita pizza, which was amazing! I felt like I was back in Italy.
Before we left, our server, Davide, from Venice, and a couple others, sang ‘Happy Birthday’ in Italian and brought me a little birthday treat!
The square outside is made to look like San Marco in Venice, complete with Italian street performers and gondola parking.
Another favourite spot of mine is Germany. It looks like a fairy tale village and was the perfect stop for another drink—this time a German beer in a souvenir stein!
Several countries have crystal shops filled with beautiful jewels. I can never resist getting my photo taken with a crystal sign and found a few around the world with their own unique way of spelling my name!
We made a quick stop at the Outpost before heading over to China, with a room dedicated to Shanghai Disney, the only one I haven’t been to, and a film, ‘Reflections of China’ inside the stunning red Chinese temple.
We made it to Norway as the sun was setting. Another ride I really wanted to go on was Frozen Ever After, but with a wait time of over an hour and a half we decided to keep going. The beautiful wooden Norwegian building housed a display at the Gods of the Vikings.
But this troll, found inside the shop, was my favourite.
I love wandering through the shops as they are filled with popular items from that country as well as Disney souvenirs for each country and feature the characters whose stories take place there. Beautiful beer steins in Germany, assorted teas and teapots in the UK, trolls and Viking ships in Norway, etc.
The sun had set by the time we reached our final country, Mexico. We headed up into the old Mayan temple to find a lively Mexican street market filled with shops and restaurants and a ride with no wait!
We boarded the boat for the Gran Fiesta Tour starring the Three Caballeros and sailed off for a trip around Mexico.
We did it! We made it around the world for my 40th birthday and I got my ‘passport’ stamped in each country.
In places where they didn’t speak English, I also asked them to write ‘Happy Birthday’ in their language to keep as a fun souvenir of my birthday trip ‘Around the World!’
Even if the official passports aren’t back, I highly recommend doing this. There is a KIDCOT station in each country with a local from that country working there. They stamp your book and write a message in the country’s official language and then also give you a card with some facts about the country and a sticker. I even had a few draw me a picture.
Don’t forget to pick up your postcard from your final stop!
Such a great souvenir from EPCOT for both kids and those of us who are just travel-addicted kids at heart!
EPCOT hosts several festivals every year and this year my birthday was the first day of the International Festival of the Arts which runs January 12th to February 19th, 2024. There was lots of artwork for sale in various sections of the park as well as specialty food and beverage items. But what I was excited about is the Disney on Broadway Concert Series held at the America Gardens Theatre.
The first show featured Caissie Levy and Patti Murin, who originated Elsa and Anna in Frozen on Broadway. A perfect addition to my birthday celebrations at Disney!
While EPCOT is beautiful during the day, there is something magical about seeing the countries and Spaceship Earth all lit up at night.
Our final stop was to watch Luminous: The Symphony of Us at 9 p.m., the firework show which takes place on the water in the centre of World Showcase.
Are you ready to follow in the footsteps of giants??
When I arrived in Northern Ireland, visiting Giant’s Causeway was at the top of my must- sees during my short stay. I had seen photos of this unique-looking causeway for years and knew I wanted to see it up close.
Giant’s Causeway is located in County Antrim on the North Coast of Northern Ireland near the town of Bushmills. It is found along the Causeway Coast Route, which runs from Carrickfergus to Derry. This route is considered to be one of the most beautiful drives in Ireland. I only did part of it, but the views along the way were even better than I imagined.
So where did this unique causeway come from?
The scientific explanation is that the Giant’s Causeway was formed by volcanic activity 50-60 million years ago. The basalt lava oozed up through the chalk beds and then cooled, forming these awesome pillars. Over 40,000 basalt pillars are found here!
While that explanation is great … I prefer the legend of how the causeway was built by the Irish giant Finn MacCool. After being threatened by Scottish giant Benandonner, Finn began tearing up chunks of the Antrim coastline and hurling them into the sea, creating a bridge—the Giant’s Causeway—to reach Benandonner. However, once he arrived in Scotland, he realized that Benandonner was a far bigger giant than himself and Finn turned and ran back to Ireland. To trick Benandonner, he and his wife disguised him as a baby. When Benandonner saw him, he thought, “If that’s how big the baby is, I don’t want to meet the father,” and he fled back to Scotland, destroying much of the causeway so Finn could not follow.
If you visit Fingal’s Cave in Scotland, you will find it shares a similar geology and appearance to the Giant’s Causeway!
Whichever version you choose to believe, this UNESCO World Heritage Site should definitely be on your must-see list while in Northern Ireland.
Visiting the Giant’s Causeway:
The Giant’s Causeway itself is free to visit.
However, if you decide to go to the visitor’s centre then you will be required to pay. The National Trust recently built a huge visitor centre here and the signs can be misleading, making you think you are required to pay to see the causeway itself. If you choose to go to the visitor’s centre, you will also have access to an audio guide and the Giant’s Causeway car parks. The entrance fee here is £13.50. I opted to avoid the visitor’s centre and take myself on a free tour of this natural wonder!
There are several trails to hike around the Giant’s Causeway varying in length and difficulty. The easiest one is the Blue Trail, leading from the visitor’s centre down to the Giant’s Boot. If you have a limited amount of time to explore the Giant’s Causeway, this is the trail for you.
The hike down is fairly easy, although the terrain is hilly and uneven in spots. Be sure to wear proper shoes.
If mobility is an issue, there is also a shuttle bus that goes from the visitor’s centre down to the causeway for £1. (Times vary and on busy days you may have to wait as space is limited.)
The whole site is stunning, with green fields leading down to the water, but seeing the unique basalt pillars rising up from the water is truly amazing.
The best time to visit is early in the morning or at dusk, when photos are great and the crowds are minimal.
I spent a couple hours here, walking along the coastline, climbing on the pillars, and looking around in awe. It truly is a sight to see up close!
Other stops nearby:
Old Bushmills Distillery – The world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery. It has been around since 1608. Book a tour or a tasting or just stop by the gift shop or bar.
Dunluce Castle – This beautiful medieval castle, built on the side of a cliff, dates back to the early 1500s. Legend has it that the kitchen broke off and fell into the sea below (along with some of the kitchen staff!). The castle is mainly ruins now with some historical and archaeological exhibits open to the public. This picturesque Irish castle is also a popular spot for wedding photos.
(Open 9 a.m. – 5 p.m., last admission 4:30pm. £6.)
Carrick-a-rede– This rope bridge was built by fishermen in 1755 to assist with their salmon fishing. It hangs 30m above sea level and is now owned by the National Trust. Along with the rope bridge there is a 2km coastal walk and a 400-year-old Fisherman’s Cottage.
If you want to cross the rope bridge, you need to prebook a time. (Note: coaches are no longer allowed to enter the site.)
Carrickfergus Castle – Located in the town of Carrickfergus. This Norman Castle is one of the best-preserved medieval structures in Ireland.
(Open 9:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., £6.)
Northern Ireland is also home to many filming locations from the hit HBO series Game of Thrones. There are whole tours based around the locations.
Two of the most popular are:
The Dark Hedges – This beautiful avenue of beech trees along Bregagh Road has become one of the most photographed spots in Northern Ireland. In Game of Thrones, it represents the Kingsroad. It has become a very popular tourist spot. It is free to walk along the avenue, but remember that vehicles are not allowed. Parking is available nearby at the Dark Hedges Estate, where you will also find a cafe. The Dark Hedges are a short walk from there.
Cushendun Caves – These caves have been formed over 400 million years. The numerous rock cavities have all been naturally carved out by water and time. There’s a little stone beach leading to the caves. It’s a quick stop, but impressive to see. In Game of Thrones, this is where Melisandre gives birth to the terrible shadow killer. Access to the cave is free and open all year round. Parking is found nearby. Just keep in mind that people live in the flats beside the caves, so follow the trail and avoid the locals’ property.
If you are driving around Northern Ireland, all these stops can easily be seen in a day or two, depending on how long you wish to spend at each stop and how many other stops you want to make along the Causeway Coast Route. If, like me, you are without a car and have a limited amount of time, McComb’s Tours does a great day trip, stopping at all these places and more throughout the day. Book the tour here.
So get out and enjoy the beauty of Northern Ireland!
Stepping into the pastel-coloured village of Portmeirion, filled with ornate statues and brightly coloured flowers felt like I was stepping into an Italian inspired village at Disney World. Portmeirion Village was designed by Welsh architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925-1975 and is said to be modelled on the famous Italian town of Portofino. He acquired the land in 1925, opened the Hotel Portmeirion in 1926, and then continued developing the grounds for the next fifty years.
One of the most popular tourist spots in North Wales, Portmeirion is also a great spot for weddings and other special celebrations.
Unlike most villages that you can freely wander into, Portmeirion is now owned by a charitable trust and you need a ticket to enter (Adult £18.00), but it’s worth it to wander around a charming Italian village while in the UK.
Once inside, simply exploring this unique village is one of the best things to do at Portmeirion. The pastel pink, orange, and yellow buildings and bright turquoise doors, and the ornate stonework and architecture and colourful gardens all are part of what make visiting Portmeirion so unique.
The village makes for a great day tour or overnight stay, depending on your time.
For guests wishing to stay, Portmeirion has two hotels, The Hotel Portmeirion and Castell Deudraeth, as well as a number of self-catering cottages. Both hotels also have dining options for all to enjoy.
While exploring the village, you’ll come across a variety of shops and cafes where you can shop for some famous Portmeirion pottery, check out the art gallery, and then grab an authentic homemade gelato at ‘Angel Ices.
Enjoy your gelato by the fountain in the Central Piazza, surrounded by a rainbow of colour, or play a game of chess on the life-sized chess board found here.
Once you’re done relaxing, Portmeirion Village is set amongst 70 acres of forest, with 19 miles of pathways & walking trails.
There is actually a subtropical forest here, known as The Gwyllt, which means ‘wildwood’ in Welsh. The Gwyllt features some of Britain’s largest trees, rare flowers, and secret gardens.
Hidden along the pathways are the Japanese Garden, with its pagoda and lily-covered lake, and secret sites like the Dog Cemetery, Ghost Garden, and Shelter Valley.
Along the waterfront, you’ll find the lighthouse and the old stone boat, which is an homage to the Amis Reunis, the original boat that Clough used as a houseboat when he first bought the property. You can also take a walk along the white sandy beaches of the Dwyryd Estuary.
If you have time, indulge in a spa treatment at the Mermaid Spa in the village.
Portmeirion is open year-round and is most easily reached by car.
It’s the perfect addition to a North Wales road trip, particularly if you’re already in the area to visit Snowdonia.
If you don’t have a car, another great way to visit Portmeirion is on a tour like I did. This tour from Llandudno included castles, Snowdonia National Park, and Portmeirion.
(The entry fee to the village is not included in the price.)
Whether you decide to spend a few hours or a few days, I definitely recommend adding a stop at the charming village of Portmeirion and indulging in the Welsh Riviera!
Looking for a seaside getaway in Northwest Wales? Llandudno should be at the top of your list!
Llandudno began as a small settlement of mainly copper mine workers, but it was the desire for seaside getaways during the Victorian era that led to Llandudno becoming a popular holiday destination.
The Llandudno Promenade, stretching almost two miles long, is quite an impressive sight. With large Victorian hotels lining one side and the beach on the other, it’s the perfect spot for an evening stroll.
One of the most popular sights in Llandudno is Llandudno Pier, located at the west end of the promenade. This Victorian pier has been around since 1878. Jutting out into the Irish Sea, the pier is 2,295 feet in length, making it the longest pier in Wales. Along the pier, you’ll find a wide range of attractions, concessions, food stalls, and an arcade.
One of the most famous attractions is the Pier View Ferris Wheel, which stands 70 feet tall and has 18 gondolas providing riders with a stunning view of the promenade as well as the Great Orme as they enjoy the ride. Even more spectacular is seeing it lit up with 10,000 lights in the evening!
Rising above Llandudno stands the Great Orme, one of the most spectacular parks in Wales, with scenic views and diverse wildlife. It’s a limestone headland that has been mined for over 4,000 years.
This area became a popular spot during the Bronze Age when miners began prospecting the area for copper. Today, there are numerous trails to hike in the Great Orme, or you can take a drive around the Marine Drive Toll Road, taking in the views and trying to find the famous Kashmir goats. A pair of goats from the Windsor Royal Herd were given to Major General Sir Savage Mostyn around 1880. The herd was released on the Great Orme 20 years later and the goats have been roaming wild ever since! Easier to spot are the herds of sheep found grazing all over.
(You can walk or bike the Marine Drive Toll Road for free. Cars cost £4.50 for the 5-mile scenic drive.)
There are two other ways to get to the summit: Cable Cars or the Tramway.
The Llandudno Cable Cars leave from Happy Valley Park and travel 679 feet up to the summit of the Great Orme. You can enjoy the panoramic views on this 9-minute journey.
The Great Orme Tramway is another option to summit the Great Orme. The tram opened in 1902 and is Britain’s only funicular, or cable-hauled, tramway. The journey begins at Victoria Station and climbs up through the Great Orme Country Park and Nature Reserve to the summit, stopping to switch trams at the Halfway Station. Here, you can learn more about how the tramway works and watch the giant cables turn to move the tram along the tracks. At the summit, there is a cafe, gift shop, and some more info on the area to peruse once you are done taking in the beautiful views!
Great Orme Bronze Age Mine is located near the halfway stop on the tramway. The copper mine was uncovered in 1987 during plans to landscape that area of the Great Orme. Since then, mining engineers, cavers, and archaeologists have continued to discover more tunnels and large areas of the surface landscape. It is considered to be the largest prehistoric mine discovered so far.
After a quick introduction video, you put on your hard hat and head down into the mine on a self-guided tour, exploring tunnels mined over 3,500 years ago. There are nine levels of Bronze Age tunnels found here. On the tour, you are able to explore levels 1 and 2, down 18m of the 46m total. The tunnels are very narrow and the ground is uneven in spots as you make your way down and then back up to the surface.
Once you’re back outside the mine, you can see down into the pit and learn about the steps involved in copper/bronze mining. It’s an interesting spot to explore with a lot of local history.
(Open daily at 9:30am. Last entry 4:30pm. Entry £10.50.)
Happy Valley Park, located on the slope of the Great Orme, was donated to the town of Llandudno by Lord Mostyn in 1887 as a celebration of Queen Victoria’s golden jubilee. What was once a quarry has now been turned into a beautiful park that features a statue of Queen Victoria as well as gardens, a cafe, a putting green, a ski slope, and the cable car base station while offering great views of Llandudno Pier.
As you wander the streets of Llandudno, you will come across statues from Alice in Wonderland. It is said that the real ‘Alice’ spent the first of many summer holidays here in 1861 and inspired Charles Dodgson, who we know best by his pen name, Lewis Carroll, to write his famous novel Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.
The town has embraced this story, unveiling an iconic White Rabbit statue in 1933. Since then, Llandudno has made the most of its Alice connection and you’ll find statues of characters like Alice, the Mad Hatter, the Queen of Hearts, and the White Rabbit scattered all around the town. Want to find them all? You can purchase an Alice in Wonderland Town Trail Map, “Follow the White Rabbit,” at the Tourist Information Centre and follow the 55 bronze cast footprints in the pavement starting outside the Llandudno Library.
Once you’ve finished your journey down the rabbit hole, head over to “The Looking Glass,” an Alice-themed dessert cafe, on Mostyn St. As you step inside the colourful dessert wonderland, the smell is amazing. The wholevenue is adorned with Alice in Wonderland-themed quotes and items.
From the bar you can order your ice cream with waffles or pancakes, as a banana split and more, and then choose what assortment of toppings and sauces you want to add to your creation. If you have a sweet tooth, you’d be ‘mad’ to miss enjoying a treat at this curious cafe!
Ready for some real food?
Head to The Cottage Loaf, a traditional Welsh country pub. It’s got a homey feel with wooden beams, fireplaces, old heavy furniture, and a great bar with a large variety of beer, including some local craft ones.
This charming town has something for everyone to enjoy on your Victorian-style seaside holiday!
While researching seaside towns to visit in Wales, I quickly found that Tenby checked all the boxes:
Sandy beaches ✔️
Castle ruins ✔️
Colourful houses ✔️
Local brewery ✔️
and a nearby island inhabited by monks to explore✔️
So, I took the train from Cardiff and headed off to enjoy a few days by the seaside.
The historic fishing village of Tenby is located in the beautiful Pembrokeshire area of Southwest Wales.
As a Canadian, it instantly reminded me of St. John’s, Newfoundland, with its colourful rows of houses, fishing boats, harbour, and plenty of fresh local seafood.
In Tenby, you are never far from a sandy beach. North, South and Castle beaches are all an easy walk from anywhere in town and with lots of space, especially when the tide is out, there’s plenty of room for everyone.
Tenby’s Welsh name, Dinbych-y-Pysgod, means ‘Little Fortress of the Fish’ and fishing is very popular here. Explore the harbour and find locals fishing off the pier or book a mackerel fishing excursion from one of the boat operators. You can also book tickets for a seal safari, island cruise, sunset cruise, and more.
Early in the morning, you will find the harbour full of boats floating in the calm water, but as the tide goes out, soon the boats are sitting in the sand. It’s quite the sight!
The harbour has its own small beach to enjoy as well as the old stone St Julian’s Fisherman’s Church.
Tenby Castle was built by the Normans in the 12th century. Today, all that’s left of Tenby Castle is a small tower perched on top of Castle Hill, overlooking Castle Beach and surrounded by the sea.
While most of the castle is gone, the old town walls remain fairly intact, especially on the east side. The main entrance here is ‘Five Arches’ gate, leading to a maze of narrow streets that make up the picturesque old town of Tenby.
St Catherine’s Island & Fort has a very interesting history including a 13th century chapel, Victorian fort, palatial home, wartime garrison, zoo, movie location, and is now a visitor attraction.
Located just off Castle Beach, at low tide, St Catherine’s becomes a tidal island that’s easy to stroll across the beach to. (The entrance fee is £5. Open daily during the summer. Times depend on the tides.)
I loved walking along the waterfront, past all the colourful houses and up and down the hilly old streets, making my way around town.
As I wandered around, I found a number of old buildings with plaques on them stating what famous person had lived or vacationed there, including authors Mary Ann Evans (aka George Eliot) and Roald Dahl. (I would have loved to stay in this cabin by the water!)
And this house, where it’s said that Henry Tudor (later King Henry VII) escaped through a tunnel and fled to France in 1471!
St. Mary’s Church stands in Tudor Square. During the Middle Ages, it was the largest Medieval Church in Wales and reflected the town’s prosperity as a bustling port town.
Caldey Island is a small island, 2.4km long & 1.6km wide, located about a 20-minute boat ride from Tenby. (£15 return, buy from a kiosk down by the harbour.)
The island has been inhabited by monks since the 6th century. Currently, Caldey Island is home to Cistercian monks, who built the abbey here in 1906. The island is also home to one of the area’s most beautiful beaches and gorgeous cliff views along the island’s trails. The small village hosts a tea garden, gift shop, gallery, and post office. The monks make and sell chocolate and perfume on the island and I definitely recommend the chocolate!
Here, you will also find St. David’s Church, with some beautiful stained glass and the Italianate Abbey, home to the Cistercian monks. Guests may enter the Abbey Church, but the rest of the Abbey is private.
St Illtyd’s Church and Old Priory is the oldest building on the island. While some of it is now in ruins, most of the church remains and the stained glass inside is beautiful. The pond out front is also host to the island’s black swans.
Caldey island has several walks to explore, allowing guests to enjoy the views and the island’s wildlife.
If, like me, you are a fan of beer, and craft beer in particular, then Tenby Harbwr Brewery is a must. Filling up most of an alleyway, this brewery has a beer garden, retail store, taproom, and outdoor alley sitting, as well as a restaurant. Grab a pint (or two) and enjoy!
As you stroll along the historic streets of Tenby, you’ll come across a number of quaint shops, restaurants, and snack shops. (Be sure to stop for a local Welsh cake!) After spending my day by the water, I went looking for fish & chips. I chose Tenby’s Traditional Fish & Chips for takeout and enjoyed my meal back down by the water, watching the sun set over this colourful seaside wonder.
I’ve travelled to the UK many times over the years, but had never made it to Wales. So, on a recent trip, I figured it was time!
The capital of Wales, Cardiff, or Caerdydd in Welsh, started out quite small. In 1801 there were only about 2,000 people living here. Rapid growth between 1801-1911 led to a population of 180,000 by 1911. Cardiff only officially became the capital of Wales in 1955 and is still a relatively small capital with around 488,000 people.
I wasn’t sure what to expect from Cardiff, but quickly fell in love with its charm. The city centre is filled with restaurants, pubs, and shopping as well as historic sights to explore.
Cardiff is a city of Victorian and Edwardian arcades. Originally, these covered pedestrian thoroughfares were designed to enable locals to enjoy indoor shopping without any concern for the weather. Within the walls of Cardiff’s seven arcades, you’ll find a maze of over 100 independent stores and local eateries. But even if the weather is great, they are still beautiful to explore.
The Cardiff Arcade Company turned a retired slum house into the city’s first shopping plaza, The Royal Arcade, in 1858. Castle Arcade, which was built between 1882 and 1889, is one of my faves, most famous for its balconies and two large arches mirroring each other. It’s quite the sight!
As I only had two full days to explore the city, I started my visit with a quick stop for some Welsh cakes from Fabulous Welshcakes (they are delicious!) and then went on a free walking tour.
I find they are a great way to get oriented with a new city, learn some history and fun facts, and get great recommendations on where to eat, drink, and visit.
This tour was no exception, and I even learned a few Welsh phrases! Welsh is the oldest language in the UK. Wales in Welsh is ‘Cymru’ and Welcome is ‘Croeso.’ In the 1500s, the Welsh language was banned by England and English was the only official language until 1967, when Welsh was finally given language status. The 1993 Welsh Language Act gave Welsh equal status to English and you will now find all road signs, official documents, etc. written in both languages. There has been a big push to bring the Welsh language back after years of decline, and once again it is being taught in schools.
A must-see in Cardiff is Cardiff Castle, nestled right in the city between shops and the leafy green Bute Park. The castle’s history dates back 2,000 years, when the Romans built a series of forts. During the 11th century, the Normans built the Keep which is still found on the Castle Green. During the 19th century, the Bute family transformed the House into the lavish Victorian Gothic home that’s on display today. Then, in 1947, Cardiff Castle and its extensive parkland were given to the City of Cardiff by the Bute family.
A general admission ticket (£14.50) allows access to most of the castle grounds. You can also purchase add-ons for the Black Tower, a guided House Tour, or a Clock Tower tour.
The oldest parts of the residential buildings date back to the 1500s. In 1865, the 3rd Marquess of Bute began working with art-architect William Burges to transform Cardiff Castle into a medieval dream palace. Each room of the house is ornately decorated. Favourites of mine included the Arab Room and the Library.
The twelve-sided Keep continues to stand on the Castle Green and you can climb up to the top for a great view of the city.
In the Visitors Centre, you will find parts of the old Roman Walls that were hidden for 900 years, as well as the Roman Chariot corner. The Firing Line Museum is also found here, with displays from The Queen’s Dragoon Guards and The Royal Welsh’s military history.
My favourite part to explore was the wartime shelters & tunnels found within the walls. It’s estimated that over 1800 people took shelter within the castle walls during air raids in World War II.
While Cardiff can be quite a rainy city, I lucked into some nice sunny spring weather, perfect for wandering through Bute Park, the city’s green heart. There are numerous trails, gardens, champion trees, and food options amongst the many things to see in the park. You can also catch the water taxi to Cardiff Bay here.
My favourite part is the section of the walls lining Castle Street, near the west entrance of Cardiff Castle, known as the “Animal Wall.” Carving of the original animals began in 1880 under the direction of the 3rd Marquess of Bute. By 1890, the first sculptures on the wall were complete, including a pair of lions, a lioness, a lynx, a bear, a sea lion, a wolf, a pair of apes, and a hyena.
The wall was moved in 1923 and additional animals were added—a vulture, beaver, leopard, a pair of raccoons, a pelican, and an anteater. You can tell the originals apart from the later ones as they have glass eyes. There are 15 in total.
The Victorian Cardiff Market, located in the centre of the city, has been around in one form or another since the 1700s. While you will no longer find livestock here, many of the old features are still retained by this lively market, and shoppers will find everything from traditional Welsh food, produce, clothing, antiques, food stalls, and more. Closed on Sundays and holidays (of course, the days I was visiting).
One of the oldest medieval buildings left in Cardiff is the Parish of St John the Baptist Church, located across from Cardiff Market. Originally built in 1180, the 40m tower can be seen throughout the city.
Principality Stadium, located in Cardiff centre, is the main stadium for the national rugby team, Wales’ national sport. I also learned that the national animal is the dragon, the national flower is the daffodil, and unlike any other country I know, the national vegetable is the leek! It’s said that St David, the Patron Saint of Wales, told the Welsh soldiers to wear a leek on their helmets so they could spot each other better during the battle with the Saxons!
If museums are your thing, the Museum of Cardiff exhibits the history of the city with over 3000 artifacts from the city’s past. There is also National Museum Cardiff, a museum and gallery featuring special exhibits, including one currently running, ‘BBC 100 in Wales.’ Admission is free to both museums.
About a 35-minute walk north is stunning Llandaff Cathedral. Take a walk through Bute Park and along Pontcanna Street, with its beautiful old flats, as you make your way there.
Llandaff Cathedral stands on one of the oldest Christian sites in Great Britain, dating back to the 6th century. The present Cathedral dates back to 1107 and is considered to be one of the most notable medieval works of art in Wales.
I never thought of Cardiff as a foodie destination, but there are tons of restaurant options in Cardiff, including some serving traditional Welsh fare.
I had dinner at The Botanist and fell in love with the decor. I felt like I was eating dinner in a fancy greenhouse, where they played live music in a gazebo (including a great rendition of Dolly’s ‘Jolene’ by request!) and have a delicious Sunday Roast menu as well as their famous hanging kebabs.
And, of course, no trip anywhere in the UK is complete without a pint or two at one of the many local pubs!
Getting there:
Fly into Rhoose Cardiff International Airport. While the train doesn’t connect directly to the airport, there is a shuttle bus (£2) that takes you to Rhoose Cardiff International Rail Station where you can catch a train to Cardiff Central Station. (£5.20+)
You can also take trains, buses, or drive from England, Scotland, and the rest of Wales.
I found the train system in Wales to be excellent and you can easily book your tickets in advance online, usually saving you money.
Tales of a Travel Addict 
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