Europe

A seaside holiday in Llandudno, Wales

Posted on July 10, 2023 by crystalburney

Looking for a seaside getaway in Northwest Wales? Llandudno should be at the top of your list!

Llandudno began as a small settlement of mainly copper mine workers, but it was the desire for seaside getaways during the Victorian era that led to Llandudno becoming a popular holiday destination.

The Llandudno Promenade, stretching almost two miles long, is quite an impressive sight. With large Victorian hotels lining one side and the beach on the other, it’s the perfect spot for an evening stroll.

One of the most popular sights in Llandudno is Llandudno Pier, located at the west end of the promenade. This Victorian pier has been around since 1878. Jutting out into the Irish Sea, the pier is 2,295 feet in length, making it the longest pier in Wales. Along the pier, you’ll find a wide range of attractions, concessions, food stalls, and an arcade. 

One of the most famous attractions is the Pier View Ferris Wheel, which stands 70 feet tall and has 18 gondolas providing riders with a stunning view of the promenade as well as the Great Orme as they enjoy the ride. Even more spectacular is seeing it lit up with 10,000 lights in the evening!

Rising above Llandudno stands the Great Orme, one of the most spectacular parks in Wales, with scenic views and diverse wildlife. It’s a limestone headland that has been mined for over 4,000 years.

This area became a popular spot during the Bronze Age when miners began prospecting the area for copper. Today, there are numerous trails to hike in the Great Orme, or you can take a drive around the Marine Drive Toll Road, taking in the views and trying to find the famous Kashmir goats. A pair of goats from the Windsor Royal Herd were given to Major General Sir Savage Mostyn around 1880. The herd was released on the Great Orme 20 years later and the goats have been roaming wild ever since! Easier to spot are the herds of sheep found grazing all over.

(You can walk or bike the Marine Drive Toll Road for free. Cars cost £4.50 for the 5-mile scenic drive.)

There are two other ways to get to the summit: Cable Cars or the Tramway.

The Llandudno Cable Cars leave from Happy Valley Park and travel 679 feet up to the summit of the Great Orme. You can enjoy the panoramic views on this 9-minute journey.

The Great Orme Tramway is another option to summit the Great Orme. The tram opened in 1902 and is Britain’s only funicular, or cable-hauled, tramway. The journey begins at Victoria Station and climbs up through the Great Orme Country Park and Nature Reserve to the summit, stopping to switch trams at the Halfway Station. Here, you can learn more about how the tramway works and watch the giant cables turn to move the tram along the tracks. At the summit, there is a cafe, gift shop, and some more info on the area to peruse once you are done taking in the beautiful views!

Great Orme Bronze Age Mine is located near the halfway stop on the tramway. The copper mine was uncovered in 1987 during plans to landscape that area of the Great Orme. Since then, mining engineers, cavers, and archaeologists have continued to discover more tunnels and large areas of the surface landscape. It is considered to be the largest prehistoric mine discovered so far.

After a quick introduction video, you put on your hard hat and head down into the mine on a self-guided tour, exploring tunnels mined over 3,500 years ago. There are nine levels of Bronze Age tunnels found here. On the tour, you are able to explore levels 1 and 2, down 18m of the 46m total. The tunnels are very narrow and the ground is uneven in spots as you make your way down and then back up to the surface.

Once you’re back outside the mine, you can see down into the pit and learn about the steps involved in copper/bronze mining. It’s an interesting spot to explore with a lot of local history.

(Open daily at 9:30am. Last entry 4:30pm. Entry £10.50.)

Happy Valley Park, located on the slope of the Great Orme, was donated to the town of Llandudno by Lord Mostyn in 1887 as a celebration of Queen Victoria’s golden jubilee. What was once a quarry has now been turned into a beautiful park that features a statue of Queen Victoria as well as gardens, a cafe, a putting green, a ski slope, and the cable car base station while offering great views of Llandudno Pier.

As you wander the streets of Llandudno, you will come across statues from Alice in Wonderland. It is said that the real ‘Alice’ spent the first of many summer holidays here in 1861 and inspired Charles Dodgson, who we know best by his pen name, Lewis Carroll, to write his famous novel Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

The town has embraced this story, unveiling an iconic White Rabbit statue in 1933. Since then, Llandudno has made the most of its Alice connection and you’ll find statues of characters like Alice, the Mad Hatter, the Queen of Hearts, and the White Rabbit scattered all around the town. Want to find them all? You can purchase an Alice in Wonderland Town Trail Map, “Follow the White Rabbit,” at the Tourist Information Centre and follow the 55 bronze cast footprints in the pavement starting outside the Llandudno Library.

Once you’ve finished your journey down the rabbit hole, head over to “The Looking Glass,” an Alice-themed dessert cafe, on Mostyn St. As you step inside the colourful dessert wonderland, the smell is amazing. The wholevenue is adorned with Alice in Wonderland-themed quotes and items.

From the bar you can order your ice cream with waffles or pancakes, as a banana split and more, and then choose what assortment of toppings and sauces you want to add to your creation. If you have a sweet tooth, you’d be ‘mad’ to miss enjoying a treat at this curious cafe!

Ready for some real food?

Head to The Cottage Loaf, a traditional Welsh country pub. It’s got a homey feel with wooden beams, fireplaces, old heavy furniture, and a great bar with a large variety of beer, including some local craft ones.

This charming town has something for everyone to enjoy on your Victorian-style seaside holiday!

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Colourful Tenby: Wale’s ‘Little Fortress of the Fish’

Posted on June 16, 2023 by crystalburney

While researching seaside towns to visit in Wales, I quickly found that Tenby checked all the boxes:

Sandy beaches ✔️

Castle ruins ✔️

Colourful houses ✔️

Local brewery ✔️

and a nearby island inhabited by monks to explore✔️

So, I took the train from Cardiff and headed off to enjoy a few days by the seaside.

The historic fishing village of Tenby is located in the beautiful Pembrokeshire area of Southwest Wales.

As a Canadian, it instantly reminded me of St. John’s, Newfoundland, with its colourful rows of houses, fishing boats, harbour, and plenty of fresh local seafood.

In Tenby, you are never far from a sandy beach. North, South and Castle beaches are all an easy walk from anywhere in town and with lots of space, especially when the tide is out, there’s plenty of room for everyone.

Tenby’s Welsh name, Dinbych-y-Pysgod, means ‘Little Fortress of the Fish’ and fishing is very popular here. Explore the harbour and find locals fishing off the pier or book a mackerel fishing excursion from one of the boat operators. You can also book tickets for a seal safari, island cruise, sunset cruise, and more.

Early in the morning, you will find the harbour full of boats floating in the calm water, but as the tide goes out, soon the boats are sitting in the sand. It’s quite the sight!

The harbour has its own small beach to enjoy as well as the old stone St Julian’s Fisherman’s Church.

Tenby Castle was built by the Normans in the 12th century. Today, all that’s left of Tenby Castle is a small tower perched on top of Castle Hill, overlooking Castle Beach and surrounded by the sea.

While most of the castle is gone, the old town walls remain fairly intact, especially on the east side. The main entrance here is ‘Five Arches’ gate, leading to a maze of narrow streets that make up the picturesque old town of Tenby.

St Catherine’s Island & Fort has a very interesting history including a 13th century chapel, Victorian fort, palatial home, wartime garrison, zoo, movie location, and is now a visitor attraction.

Located just off Castle Beach, at low tide, St Catherine’s becomes a tidal island that’s easy to stroll across the beach to. (The entrance fee is £5. Open daily during the summer. Times depend on the tides.) 

I loved walking along the waterfront, past all the colourful houses and up and down the hilly old streets, making my way around town.

As I wandered around, I found a number of old buildings with plaques on them stating what famous person had lived or vacationed there, including authors Mary Ann Evans (aka George Eliot) and Roald Dahl. (I would have loved to stay in this cabin by the water!)

And this house, where it’s said that Henry Tudor (later King Henry VII) escaped through a tunnel and fled to France in 1471!

St. Mary’s Church stands in Tudor Square. During the Middle Ages, it was the largest Medieval Church in Wales and reflected the town’s prosperity as a bustling port town.

Caldey Island is a small island, 2.4km long & 1.6km wide, located about a 20-minute boat ride from Tenby. (£15 return, buy from a kiosk down by the harbour.)

The island has been inhabited by monks since the 6th century. Currently, Caldey Island is home to Cistercian monks, who built the abbey here in 1906. The island is also home to one of the area’s most beautiful beaches and gorgeous cliff views along the island’s trails. The small village hosts a tea garden, gift shop, gallery, and post office. The monks make and sell chocolate and perfume on the island and I definitely recommend the chocolate!

Here, you will also find St. David’s Church, with some beautiful stained glass and the Italianate Abbey, home to the Cistercian monks. Guests may enter the Abbey Church, but the rest of the Abbey is private.

St Illtyd’s Church and Old Priory is the oldest building on the island. While some of it is now in ruins, most of the church remains and the stained glass inside is beautiful. The pond out front is also host to the island’s black swans.

Caldey island has several walks to explore, allowing guests to enjoy the views and the island’s wildlife.

If, like me, you are a fan of beer, and craft beer in particular, then Tenby Harbwr Brewery is a must. Filling up most of an alleyway, this brewery has a beer garden, retail store, taproom, and outdoor alley sitting, as well as a restaurant. Grab a pint (or two) and enjoy!

As you stroll along the historic streets of Tenby, you’ll come across a number of quaint shops, restaurants, and snack shops. (Be sure to stop for a local Welsh cake!) After spending my day by the water, I went looking for fish & chips. I chose Tenby’s Traditional Fish & Chips for takeout and enjoyed my meal back down by the water, watching the sun set over this colourful seaside wonder.

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Charming Cardiff

Posted on June 8, 2023 by crystalburney

I’ve travelled to the UK many times over the years, but had never made it to Wales. So, on a recent trip, I figured it was time!

The capital of Wales, Cardiff, or Caerdydd in Welsh, started out quite small. In 1801 there were only about 2,000 people living here. Rapid growth between 1801-1911 led to a population of 180,000 by 1911. Cardiff only officially became the capital of Wales in 1955 and is still a relatively small capital with around 488,000 people. 

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Cardiff, but quickly fell in love with its charm. The city centre is filled with restaurants, pubs, and shopping as well as historic sights to explore.

Cardiff is a city of Victorian and Edwardian arcades. Originally, these covered pedestrian thoroughfares were designed to enable locals to enjoy indoor shopping without any concern for the weather. Within the walls of Cardiff’s seven arcades, you’ll find a maze of over 100 independent stores and local eateries. But even if the weather is great, they are still beautiful to explore.

The Cardiff Arcade Company turned a retired slum house into the city’s first shopping plaza, The Royal Arcade, in 1858. Castle Arcade, which was built between 1882 and 1889, is one of my faves, most famous for its balconies and two large arches mirroring each other. It’s quite the sight!

As I only had two full days to explore the city, I started my visit with a quick stop for some Welsh cakes from Fabulous Welshcakes (they are delicious!) and then went on a free walking tour.

I find they are a great way to get oriented with a new city, learn some history and fun facts, and get great recommendations on where to eat, drink, and visit.

This tour was no exception, and I even learned a few Welsh phrases! Welsh is the oldest language in the UK. Wales in Welsh is ‘Cymru’ and Welcome is ‘Croeso.’ In the 1500s, the Welsh language was banned by England and English was the only official language until 1967, when Welsh was finally given language status. The 1993 Welsh Language Act gave Welsh equal status to English and you will now find all road signs, official documents, etc. written in both languages. There has been a big push to bring the Welsh language back after years of decline, and once again it is being taught in schools.

A must-see in Cardiff is Cardiff Castle, nestled right in the city between shops and the leafy green Bute Park. The castle’s history dates back 2,000 years, when the Romans built a series of forts. During the 11th century, the Normans built the Keep which is still found on the Castle Green. During the 19th century, the Bute family transformed the House into the lavish Victorian Gothic home that’s on display today. Then, in 1947, Cardiff Castle and its extensive parkland were given to the City of Cardiff by the Bute family. 

A general admission ticket (£14.50) allows access to most of the castle grounds. You can also purchase add-ons for the Black Tower, a guided House Tour, or a Clock Tower tour.

The oldest parts of the residential buildings date back to the 1500s. In 1865, the 3rd Marquess of Bute began working with art-architect William Burges to transform Cardiff Castle into a medieval dream palace. Each room of the house is ornately decorated. Favourites of mine included the Arab Room and the Library.

 The twelve-sided Keep continues to stand on the Castle Green and you can climb up to the top for a great view of the city. 

In the Visitors Centre, you will find parts of the old Roman Walls that were hidden for 900 years, as well as the Roman Chariot corner. The Firing Line Museum is also found here, with displays from The Queen’s Dragoon Guards and The Royal Welsh’s military history.

My favourite part to explore was the wartime shelters & tunnels found within the walls. It’s estimated that over 1800 people took shelter within the castle walls during air raids in World War II.

While Cardiff can be quite a rainy city, I lucked into some nice sunny spring weather, perfect for wandering through Bute Park, the city’s green heart. There are numerous trails, gardens, champion trees, and food options amongst the many things to see in the park. You can also catch the water taxi to Cardiff Bay here.

My favourite part is the section of the walls lining Castle Street, near the west entrance of Cardiff Castle, known as the “Animal Wall.” Carving of the original animals began in 1880 under the direction of the 3rd Marquess of Bute. By 1890, the first sculptures on the wall were complete, including a pair of lions, a lioness, a lynx, a bear, a sea lion, a wolf, a pair of apes, and a hyena.

The wall was moved in 1923 and additional animals were added—a vulture, beaver, leopard, a pair of raccoons, a pelican, and an anteater. You can tell the originals apart from the later ones as they have glass eyes. There are 15 in total.

The Victorian Cardiff Market, located in the centre of the city, has been around in one form or another since the 1700s. While you will no longer find livestock here, many of the old features are still retained by this lively market, and shoppers will find everything from traditional Welsh food, produce, clothing, antiques, food stalls, and more. Closed on Sundays and holidays (of course, the days I was visiting).

One of the oldest medieval buildings left in Cardiff is the Parish of St John the Baptist Church, located across from Cardiff Market. Originally built in 1180, the 40m tower can be seen throughout the city.

Principality Stadium, located in Cardiff centre, is the main stadium for the national rugby team, Wales’ national sport. I also learned that the national animal is the dragon, the national flower is the daffodil, and unlike any other country I know, the national vegetable is the leek! It’s said that St David, the Patron Saint of Wales, told the Welsh soldiers to wear a leek on their helmets so they could spot each other better during the battle with the Saxons!

If museums are your thing, the Museum of Cardiff exhibits the history of the city with over 3000 artifacts from the city’s past. There is also National Museum Cardiff, a museum and gallery featuring special exhibits, including one currently running, ‘BBC 100 in Wales.’ Admission is free to both museums.

About a 35-minute walk north is stunning Llandaff Cathedral. Take a walk through Bute Park and along Pontcanna Street, with its beautiful old flats, as you make your way there.

Llandaff Cathedral stands on one of the oldest Christian sites in Great Britain, dating back to the 6th century. The present Cathedral dates back to 1107 and is considered to be one of the most notable medieval works of art in Wales.

I never thought of Cardiff as a foodie destination, but there are tons of restaurant options in Cardiff, including some serving traditional Welsh fare.

I had dinner at The Botanist and fell in love with the decor. I felt like I was eating dinner in a fancy greenhouse, where they played live music in a gazebo (including a great rendition of Dolly’s ‘Jolene’ by request!) and have a delicious Sunday Roast menu as well as their famous hanging kebabs.

And, of course, no trip anywhere in the UK is complete without a pint or two at one of the many local pubs!

Getting there:

Fly into Rhoose Cardiff International Airport. While the train doesn’t connect directly to the airport, there is a shuttle bus (£2) that takes you to Rhoose Cardiff International Rail Station where you can catch a train to Cardiff Central Station. (£5.20+)

You can also take trains, buses, or drive from England, Scotland, and the rest of Wales.

I found the train system in Wales to be excellent and you can easily book your tickets in advance online, usually saving you money. 

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Santorini

Posted on September 14, 2022 by crystalburney

Santorini has been at the top of my travel wish list for years and the main reason I’ve always wanted to visit Greece. Flipping through travel magazines and seeing those white churches with the bright blue domes sitting high up on the Caldera made me want to book a plane ticket there immediately, and yet, somehow it’s taken me years to finally do it. Thankfully, when I first saw Oia, it was everything I imagined and more!

Walking along the cobblestone streets was like stepping into the photos of the travel magazines that made me dream of coming here. The contrast between the white cliff of Cycladic houses perched 300+ metres up at the top of the Caldera and the beautiful deep turquoise Aegean Sea shining below was breathtaking. I was immediately in love with all the blue doors and shutters and colourful flowers, such a striking contrast against all the white.

The island of Santorini surrounds the vast crater left by one of history’s largest volcanic eruptions, with smaller islands found around the western edge. The sunsets hitting the snow-white buildings give the whole place an orange-red glow and are definitely not to be missed!

We spent five days in Santorini, the first three at an Airbnb just outside Oia, in Finikia, and the last two in Fira.

Oia, located on the northern tip of the island, is a must-see when visiting Santorini. Restoration work after the earthquake in 1956 has turned this spot into one of the most stunning places in the Cyclades. Built at the top of the steep Caldera, bright white buildings are nestled into the dark volcanic rock and the contrast is stunning. Today, the often-narrow streets are lined with shops and restaurants. Boutique hotels and Airbnbs can be found built into the sides of the Caldera. Spend your time exploring the labyrinth of streets here, finding the iconic blue domes and numerous churches.

While not much remains of Oia Castle after the earthquake, the ruins of the Venetian Castle of Agios Nikolaos is worth a visit for the views alone. This is also one of the most popular places to watch the sunset.

Over 250 steps below Oia, you’ll find Ammoudi Bay. The walk down is full of beautiful views of the dark-red Caldera with its snow-white peaks looming above.

Several fish tavernas are found down here, making it a perfect spot to enjoy fresh fish for lunch or dinner. To get back to the top, you can take a taxi or ride a donkey … or just hike it like we did and get your steps in!

Another must-do in Oia is a sunset cruise. There are many tour options ranging in size, price, and number of participants. We went with Barbarossa Sailing, and are so glad we did. We sailed out from Ammoudi Bay and went snorkelling in the Caldera and spotted the tiny church built in the rocks at sea level and saw the boats hidden in caves for protection, sailed around Santorini, checking out the various rock formations and the old port of Fira.

We stopped for another swim in the hot springs by the newest island (still over 500 years old) before having a delicious dinner made by the crew onboard and then sailing back out into the water to watch the sunset, which was amazing over the water. (Have I mentioned that the sunsets here are not to be missed??) The cruise ended back in Ammoudi Bay, which all lit up at night is also a must see!

From Oia, we moved to Fira, Santorini’s largest town. Views from here are amazing as you’re in the middle of the island and able to see both edges of the island’s moon shape.

Much like in Oia, the Caldera’s edge is filled with layers of hotels, restaurants, and cave apartments. The narrow cobblestone streets twist and turn as you make your way up and downhill.

The old port of Santorini is 587 steps down from Fira. Here, along with walking or taking a donkey, you can also ride the cable car and enjoy the view.

Following the Caldera’s edge, you can walk to the neighbouring town of Firostefani, filled with more beautiful views and great restaurants to catch the sunset from. Anywhere along the edge here offers beautiful views of the island, the sea sparkling below and, of course, the sunset!

Also be sure to stop by The Church of the Three Bells of Fira, one of the most photographed Greek Catholic churches on the island, also known as the Church of the Ascension of the Blessed Virgin Mary. While it can be a bit tricky to figure out how to get up, the view from the top is a must-see.

As one of Greece’s most important producers of wine, no trip to Santorini is complete without touring one of its wineries. Here, they are known for fresh dry white wine made mainly from the assyrtiko grapes of the region, and I couldn’t wait to try some.

We headed to Santo Wines for a tasting with a view. They have several different tasting options available. I opted for the 7 Premium wines and was quite happy with my decision! Our server gave us a brief history of the winery and some info about each of the wines we would be tasting, but if you are looking for something more in depth, tours are also available.

And of course, the food here is amazing. If you want a sunset view along with your dinner, be sure to arrive early or make a reservation. A few of our favourites were Piatsa Souvlaki Grill House, a cheap, delicious spot near the Oia bus stop with gyros, souvlaki, tzatziki and pita and more; Terpsi N Oia, a fancier spot where we enjoyed a great breakfast with a gorgeous view over the Caldera and the 3 blue domes in Oia; and in Firostefani, we had an amazing meal with a sunset view at Vanilia Mediterranean Cuisine.

Tips and Info

Santorini is a popular cruise ship stop, especially in Oia and Fira. To help avoid the huge crush of cruise ship passengers that flock here starting mid-morning, head out early in the day and then back out in the evenings. This is also a great way to beat the heat, as shade is almost non-existent here. Plus, if you’re looking to get great photos before both the crowds and the sun hit, 7 a.m. is a great time to be out exploring!

A cheap and easy way to travel both around the island and to and from the airport is by bus. Most rides cost less than €2 and buses run on a fairly regular schedule during the high and shoulder seasons. Buses all have luggage areas too, making it a much cheaper alternative to taxis. More info can be found here.

Ditch the heels as the cobblestone is very uneven and you are constantly walking up and down stairs and hills.

If possible, avoid high season, when crowds and prices are both at their peak.

Oia is a must, but accommodation prices here are definitely at the higher end, especially during the high season. So, while I would have LOVED to have a place right on the side of the Caldera facing the gorgeous sunset, based on booking last minute and the $500 a night and up price tag, we opted to stay just outside of Oia in Finikia, in our own Cycladic-style house. Then we’d walk about 20 minutes into Oia each day. This is a great option if you are unable to book well in advance or are looking for cheaper accommodations.

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Exploring Mykonos

Posted on July 18, 2022 by crystalburney

Of all the Greek islands, Mykonos is considered to be the glamorous party island of the Cyclades, and after spending a few days here, it was pretty easy to see why the rich and famous flock to its fancy beach clubs and party the night away. But, for those of us with tighter budgets, Mykonos still has plenty to offer.

Mykonos has been attracting visitors since the 1920s, but back then, rather than sun seekers and party goers, the island was an intriguing getaway for archaeologists and antiquity hunters, who would use it as a base to visit ancient Greece on the island of Delos.

The island became more popular in the 1960s when celebrities began vacationing here, and its popularity has continued to grow. Now, during the high season, the island, which is home to over 12,000 people, sees a huge influx of tourists and cruise ship passengers, adding up to 15,000 more people a day!

With its popularity comes a higher price tag on many things, especially if you are planning to visit between June and the end of August, when prices are double or triple what they are in the low season or even the shoulder seasons of May and September. We arrived near the end of May when the temperatures were already rising and the crowds were getting bigger, but with only three nights here, we jumped right into exploring what Mykonos had to offer.

One of the most famous sights on the island is the windmills.

They were built and in use in Mykonos from around the 1500s and up to the first decades of the 20th century. As the island is blessed with a strong wind most days, windmills were the ideal tool for grinding grain into flour—primarily wheat and barley.

While they are no longer operational, many of the windmills still stand as a reminder of the past … and a great photo spot! Be sure to check them out during the day and then come back in the evening, grab a beer, and find a spot to sit and watch the gorgeous Mykonos sunset!

Below the main set of windmills, you’ll find the Little Venice area of the island, filled with lots of trendy boutiques and restaurants with colourful flowers and cascading bougainvillea. This is the perfect place to grab a drink at one of the bars and catch the sunset. (Just be aware that reservations are often required and many have a €100 sitting fee during the sunset hours.)

As you make your way along the cobblestone streets and up and down the many stairs found here in between shops and restaurants, you’ll also find a number of tiny churches. I’ve never seen so many churches in such a small area as I did around Little Venice and Old Mykonos.

Another thing Mykonos is known for is its beautiful beaches and many beach clubs, including Paradise, Super Paradise, and Paraga. Dotted along each one you’ll find beach bars, restaurants, and lounge chairs. Even for those who aren’t into the crowded party scene (like my husband and I), you’ll still have a great time down at the beaches.

We had a delicious dinner at Paraga Beach at Taso’s Taverna and then strolled along the beach watching the sunset!

One thing I was most excited about on our trip to Greece was Greek food, and Mykonos didn’t disappoint—especially the fresh seafood found here. The beach tavernas have amazing dishes, but the ones found in Old Mykonos, like Captain’s, also have a great variety. We opted for the seafood-sharing platter and weren’t disappointed!

I made a promise to my husband that when he joins me on trips, I will always do my best to find a craft brewery for him to enjoy, and it turns out Mykonos has a great one. It was a bit of an adventure to find (I don’t recommend walking from town), but Mykonos Brewing Company was worth the visit.

We enjoyed a tasting flight of the beers they had on tap as the guy working told us all about each one and a bit about the history of the brewery. My fave was Fragos’ko, a beer made with the local prickly pear!

DELOS

If ancient Greek ruins are more your style, then don’t miss taking a trip over to Delos island. This UNESCO world heritage site, which was once considered one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece, is easily accessed from Mykonos by boat. The Cyclades name comes from the islands encircling the sacred island of Delos, the mythical birthplace of the twins Apollo and Artemis. There are no permanent dwellings and overnight stays aren’t allowed. The island is only 5km long and 1300m wide and can mostly be explored in a few hours. Many of the pieces found on the island are now housed in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, but there’s a good collection found here.

Tickets can be purchased down by the water in Old Mykonos. There are several time slots each day and you can opt for just the return boat ride for €22 or a guided tour for €60. The boat ride takes about 30 minutes. Entrance to the island isn’t included in the ticket and costs €8 at the gate. Be sure to bring water, sunscreen, and good walking shoes!

Where to stay

There are so many options around the island vastly ranging in price.

We wanted to be within walkable distance to Old Mykonos and the windmills and found Oniro Suites, a small boutique hotel about a 7-minute walk from Old Mykonos.

The room was beautiful and the small pool was perfect after a hot walk around town, but the best parts were Anna, who worked reception, and the amazing continental breakfast that was included each morning. We were expecting the typical North American-style breakfast, and instead had some of the best breakfast food we’ve ever had.

More Info

Mykonos is easily accessed by high-speed ferry. We used SeaJets, but you can find all the options on FerryHopper.

If you are arriving to the island by ferry, you can take the SeaBus from the new port (where the ferries land) to the old port for €2. The SeaBus departs every 30 minutes and has lots of room for luggage.

The main Windmills of Mykonos are located in the Chora, just a 5-minute walk away from Fabrika central bus station. They are also just up the hill from Little Venice.

You can rent cars, ATVs, and motorcycles everywhere and many tourists use this as a way to travel around the island.

But if ATVs aren’t your thing, you can easily (and cheaply) get around the island by public bus. Schedules can be found here. It’s a great way to travel to the beach clubs, especially if you’re planning to drink. Plus, asking for a roundtrip ticket to Paradise is fun!

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Notre Dame

Posted on April 16, 2019 by crystalburney
Notre Dame Cathedral

It took me years to make it to Paris. For some reason, on all my trips to Europe, I circled France, but never quite seemed to make it across the border. Finally, in 2016, I arrived in Paris and one of our first stops was to see the iconic Note Dame Cathedral.

We arrived in the morning and the sun was shining from behind the massive spire. What an incredible sight! Gargoyles looking down over their beloved city and ornate statues carved throughout the building. As we walked inside, the light shining through the stained glass windows was mesmerizing.

I’m so glad I finally made it to Paris and had a chance to see this incredible building before last night’s devastating fire. I’ve loved seeing all the photos people have shared from their own trips to see Notre Dame and hoping in time this beautiful building can be restored so future travellers can also be moved by it.

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Spooky places to spend your Halloween

Posted on October 31, 2018 by crystalburney

Halloween is my favourite time of year. I love all the decorations and costumes and how everything seems just a little spookier as the leaves change colour and the carved pumpkins glow.

It’s also a great time to explore some of the world’s creepier destinations.

Here are a few of my favourite spooky spots to check out this time of year:

The Catacombs of Paris.

Exploring the Catacombs of Paris

Exploring the Catacombs of Paris.

“The City of Love” has a darker side waiting 20m below the city streets. Here, in the underground ossuaries lie the remains of more than six million people. The bones are laid in a small part of a tunnel network built to consolidate Paris’ ancient stone mines.

During the late 1700s, many of the city’s cemeteries had reached capacity. Some, including the Saints-Innocents (Cemetery of the Innocents) had gone beyond capacity. Here, people were buried in mass graves, piled one on top of the other until it became a source of infection for those nearby. In late 1785, the Council of the State closed the cemetery and decided to remove its contents.

Millions of bones

Millions of bones found in the underground ossuary of Paris

This transfer began in 1786 after the blessing and consecration of the site and continued until 1788. The moving of remains took place at nightfall, where a procession of priests sang the service for the dead along the route taken by the carts loaded with bones and covered by a black veil. Until 1814, this site received the remains from all the cemeteries of Paris.

Nowadays, the 2kms of bone-filled tunnels is a perfect place to spend a couple of hours on Halloween!

 

Wat Rong Khun, Thailand

Koi fish

Koi fish swimming in the pond surrounding What Rong Khun

Better known as the “White Temple,” Wat Rong Khun is one of the most famous temples in Thailand. Located in Chiang Rai, this temple looks like something out of a fairy tale… until you get a closer look.

Skeleton head pylon
Skulls and hands reaching up from Hell
A variety of character heads

There are demons and villains popping out of the ground and hanging from trees all around the temple. To enter the main chapel, you cross a narrow bridge over a pool of hands and faces reaching up, trying to claw their way back to the surface, representing suffering souls in Hell.

Bridge to the temple, with the hands reaching up
Hands clawing their way to the surface at Wat Rong Khun

And they sure are creepy to walk across!

 

Walt Disney World, Orlando

Mickey Halloween Lanterns

Mickey Halloween Lanterns

While it may be known as the happiest place on earth, Disney World turns into a spooky night out with Mickey’s Not- So-Scary Halloween Party.

Jack and Sally

Jack and Sally from The Nightmare Before Christmas with Mary Poppins and Bert!

It may not be as creepy as some of the other spots on this list, but with all the Halloween decor, characters like Jack and Sally out for photos and special shows like the “Hocus Pocus Villain Spelltacular” and the “Boo-to-You” Parade, it’s definitely a fun night out. Plus, it’s the one time of year that as an adult you can dress up as your favourite character at the park – and you get to trick or treat along the way, no matter how old you are!

Bert and Mary
Trick or Treating around Magic Kingdom!

Disney is truly a place where you never have to grow up, and that makes celebrating Halloween there even more fun!

 

And then, of course, there is Salem, Massachusetts

Salem Witch Museum
Salem Witch Museum lit up at night

Salem is widely known as the site of the witchcraft trials of 1692, and the history and stories surrounding the hysteria of the witchcraft trials is found everywhere here, from museums to historical re-enactments to haunted walking tours.

During the month of October, this small town of 40,000 doubles in size as Halloween enthusiasts make their way here to explore the haunting history

Memorial to Bridget Bishop
Witch Trial Memorial

You can visit the memorial dedicated to the 19 innocent people who were killed during the witch trials and you can also check out some of the film locations of my favourite fictional witches, The Sanderson Sisters from “Hocus Pocus ” 

Allison's Mansion from Hocus Pocus

Allison’s Mansion from Hocus Pocus

Salem has something for everyone and should definitely be on your Halloween travel list!

Zombie Prom

All dressed up for Zombie Prom in Salem

Next on my list of places to visit for Halloween are New Orleans, and of course, Transylvania!

What’s on your spooky travel list?

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A quick trip to Paris

Posted on May 9, 2018 by crystalburney

The Eiffel Tower at nightParis – the city of love!

A city full of history, architecture and pain du chocolat!

I’ve been to Europe 10 times but seemed to be dancing around Paris. It was finally time to go see this iconic city that everyone always has so much to say about.

We arrived and found our cute little Airbnb apartment in Montmarte, just around the corner from the Moulin Rouge and set out to join the Sandemans New Europe free walking tour. I’ve done this tour in other cities around Europe and always find it a great way to get your bearings, find some of the big tourist sites, and learn about lesser-known favourites that the guides love.

Fontaine Saint-Michel
Triumph over evil

We gathered at Fontaine Saint-Michel to start the tour and learn a bit about the buildings around us. The architecture here is incredible. I could have happily just wandered through the city looking at the buildings, but there were far too many other things to see and do to just leave my eyes glued to the buildings.

Notre Dame Cathedral

We crossed a bridge and found ourselves walking up to Notre Dame, and while we didn’t find Quasimodo ringing the bells, there were a lot of gargoyles up on the arches looking down over the city. This gorgeous French Gothic church was set for demolition, but was saved by Victor Hugo’s 1831 novel, The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. The book was so popular that a petition went out to save the church.

Inside Notre Dame
The inside is as beautiful as the outside – especially the huge stained glass windows!

Stained glass in Notre Dame
Huge stained glass windows
Gorgeous Notre Dame

We made our way along the Seine River and came to the new Love Lock Bridge. Across the way is the former Love Lock Bridge, but so many locks had been placed on it that a piece of the bridge fell off into the Seine! It was considered a hazard (and an eyesore by many locals) and was moved to a sturdier landing by the bridge. Not as cool, but still full of locks.

Love Lock Bridge
Adding our lock to ‘Love Lock Bridge’

We added our own lock to the masses and threw our key into the Seine. The area down by the water was nice to walk along except for the fact that like much of the city, the smell of pee was strongly wafting through the air. Such a beautiful…smelly city.

The LouvreThe Louvre was our next stop. This incredible building stretches along the right bank of the Seine. It houses over 35,000 works of art and it’s said it would take nine months to look at everything. Likely the most famous piece inside is the Mona Lisa, but we didn’t see it or any of the other masterpieces as we just wandered the outside of the building. Sometimes when you have limited time, you have to choose what you have time to see!

The Louvre used to be where the monarchy lived and they continued to add to it. In 1989, a new entrance was built. Pyramid outside the LouvreIt’s supposed to be an invisible pyramid, but with its height, they couldn’t get the glass to stay without breaking as soon as the wind or rain hit it. Now it’s a bunch of small triangles with steel poles holding them together, making this invisible pyramid very visible and very odd looking next to this grand building from the 13th century!

Arc de Triomphe du CarrouselAcross the way is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, a much smaller version of the main Arc de Triomphe. Napoleon commissioned it to celebrate his victory at Austerlitz. He had already commissioned the main one, but it took about 20 years to build, so he had this one made so he could walk under it in victory sooner! If you look though the marble arch you can see the Arc de Triomphe from one side and the Louvre from the other. Here, we were given more info on other main sites and our tour ended in the park.

Arc de TriompheWe continued through the park, heading towards the Arc de Triomphe, walking along the fancy Champs-Elysees area with all the high-end shops and restaurants. To get to the Arc de Triomphe, you must take the underground tunnel, as it’s far too dangerous to cross the 12 lane roundabout circling it! It’s a very patriotic sight with a huge French flag flying in the middle of the 50-metre high arch.

Flag waving in the Arc de Triomphe
Arc de Triomphe

The whole time we were walking up to it, I found myself singing songs from Les Miserables, specifically “Do You Hear the People Sing.”  (If you don’t know this musical, go check out the soundtrack!)

Eiffel Tower Our walking tour continued along Champs-Elysees as we now made our way toward the Eiffel Tower. I wanted to have the classic romantic picnic by the Eiffel Tower so we looked for a place to buy baguettes, cheese and wine, but we waited too long and most of the bakeries were closed for the day. We realized we didn’t have a corkscrew and all the good wine needed one. Eventually, we found a little market with twist off mini bottles of wine, small baguettes and some cheese, so we bought it and continued to the Eiffel Tower. What an impressive sight! You see the image of the Eiffel Tower on everything these days, but seeing it up close was amazing. We found a spot in the grass just as the sun was starting to set and started our picnic.

Our Parisian picnic

It was definitely less than ideal. The bread was hard and the cheese smelled like dirty feet! We scrapped that and got seafood paella at one of the food vendors nearby. So much for our romantic French picnic!

The Eiffel Tower all lit up at night
The light show on the Eiffel Tower

Beginning at 9pm, there is a sparkling light show on the tower lasting about 5 minutes every hour on the hour. What a spectacular sight! After watching it again at 10pm, we caught the Metro back to Montmartre and saw another iconic Parisian landmark all lit up – the Moulin Rouge. The Moulin Rouge

We spent day two at Disneyland Paris. You can see that blog post here.

The following day, we set out to walk around Montmartre, the artsy, bohemian area of Paris. I loved it here. We stopped at a bakery for pain du chocolat (delicious chocolate croissants) before continuing on. Montmartre is located on a hill, giving you some nice views, especially when you make it up to the top by the Sacre-Coeur Basilica.

The Sacre-Coeur Basillica
Inside the Sacre-Coeur

The huge dome can be seen for miles. You can climb up the Dome and head down into the crypt here. If you are tired of walking at this point, you can also take the funicular up the hill to the Sacre-Coeur. At the base of the steps is a beautiful old double-decker carousel. Beautiful carousel near Sacre-Couer

From here, we took the Metro to visit the Catacombs of Paris. It was a long wait, but it was a very cool experience, exploring the bones beneath the city. (For more on that, check out this blog post).

Shocked by how tall the walls of bones are down here.
Skull patterns made with the bones in the Catacombs of Paris

Our time in Paris was running out and although there were many more things I wanted to see and do, they would all have to wait for next time. I had one more main item to check off on this visit… climbing up the Eiffel Tower!

View from the bottom
View as I started to climb

We made our way back over to the tower, paid our €7 and started climbing. Climbing the Eiffel Tower

There are also elevators you can take, but we decided to walk up instead. You can climb as high as the second viewing deck. We stopped at the first level, 57m up, to take some photos before continuing up to the second deck at 115m. (The full tower is 324m to the tip). We toasted our success with a beer and enjoyed the view of Paris from up here. View of Paris from the Eiffel Tower

What an incredible end to a short stay in the city of love!

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Bonjour Paris!

Posted on February 7, 2018 by crystalburney

I had always wanted to visit Paris, but seemed to always find myself heading elsewhere on my trips to Europe. Finally, on my last trip over, I had a few days to spend exploring the ‘city of love’.  The architecture here is amazing. I loved just wandering around the streets taking in all the old buildings.  Since we didn’t have much time, we walked the streets looking for all the iconic Parisian sights, stopping at bakeries for croissants and coffee along the way!

Here’s a little video with some of the most famous sights in Paris.

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The bones of Paris

Posted on October 18, 2017 by crystalburney

For many, Paris, the ‘city of love,’ conjures images of romance, architecture and art. But once you’ve had your fill of the Mona Lisa and sipping champagne beneath the Eiffel Tower, a different side of Paris awaits. For this, you need to head down – about 20 metres below the city streets, where the catacombs wait.  20160826_170912

Located across the street from the Denfert-Rochereau station, is the entrance to the Catacombs of Paris. Here in the underground ossuaries lie the remains of more than six million people. The bones are laid in a small part of a tunnel network built to consolidate Paris’ ancient stone mines.

During the late 1700’s, many of the city’s cemeteries had reached capacity. Some, including the Saints-Innocents (Cemetery of the Innocents) had gone beyond capacity. Here, people were buried in mass graves, piled one on top of the other until it became a source of infection for those nearby.  In late 1785, the Council of the State closed the cemetery and decided to remove its contents.

This transfer began in 1786 after the blessing and consecration of the site and continued until 1788. The moving of remains took place at nightfall,  where a procession of priests sang the service for the dead along the route taken by the carts loaded with bones and covered by a black veil.

Until 1814, this site received the remains from all the cemeteries of Paris.

20160826_172259

Since their creation, the Catacombs of Paris became a curiosity for more privileged Parisians. Public visits began after its renovation into a proper ossuary and the 1814 – 1815 war.

In the beginning, visits were only granted a few times a year with the permission of an authorized mine inspector. This turned into permission from any mine overseer, but as the number of visitors grew, it returned to its “permission only” rule in 1830.  Then, in 1833, they were closed completely as the Church opposed the public being exposed to human remains on display.  By 1850, the Catacombs were once again open, but only for four visits a year. Public demand led to the government allowing monthly visits as of 1867. This turned into bi-weekly visits on the first and third Saturday of each month in 1874 and then weekly visits during the 1878, 1889 and 1900 World’s Fair Expositions.

Tunnel leading into the Catacombs
Catacombs of Paris

Today, they are open for daily visits, so head over and spend an hour wandering through the 2kms of bone-filled tunnels below the streets of Paris!

Some of the bones were made into shapes, like this heart of skulls
Millions of bones found in the underground ossuary of Paris
Walking through the Catacombs of Paris
The underground tunnels, leading in and out of the Catacombs
A wide pillar of bones in the Catacombs
A wall of femurs and skulls
Skull patterns made with the bones in the Catacombs of Paris
One of over a million skulls found in the Catacombs of Paris
Shocked by how tall the walls of bones are down here.
The Catacombs were built in old mines under the streets of Paris.
Skulls in the Paris Catacombs

Plan your tour

The Catacombs are open daily from 10am-8:30pm (except Mondays and holidays)

Admission is granted in time slots, with the last admission at 7:30pm

Located across the street from Denfert-Rochereau Station
Métro et RER B : Denfert-Rochereau
Bus : 38, 68
Parking : Boulevard Saint-Jacques

Visitor numbers are restricted to 200 at any time. Admission may be delayed for a short time during busy periods. Be prepared to wait. (We did for almost 2 hours).
Distance covered: 1.5 km
Duration of the tour: 45 minutes
No toilet or cloakroom facilities available

For more info, click here

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